A nagyfalon felhivas
Mars 15th ,1948, outbreak of the Hungarian revolution for independence from the Habsburg. What’s more natural than celebrating this public holiday and then long week end in Austria ?
The target : Hohe wand, a nice mountain ridge in the South -west of Vienna.
I arrived on Friday evening at base camp with Timi, Tibi, Dani and our great driver Adam.
There is not a single soul except from the stars : we are the first.
On the early morning, after a cold night, awaken by the sunlight, , trying to warmed up our frozen feet, we discover, at last, the faces of our teammates, arrived during the night. I am happy to see that David is fine although I did not see him in Bercsenyi for months.
A new climbing place, a wide choice of route, a “vidam csapat” of 25 guys, and the Sun !! Jo hétveget !
At 9 am everybody is bustling around the cars, discussing on the topo, searching for karabiners, helmets or partners.
“Where are you going ?” Huuuu I have to go somewhere, huu I don’t know. :~ . Finally I follow Anett, and some Gyori édesek climbers : Meme, Kriszta, Laci and Roger, for some sport climbing projects. The way to the crags is strewn of meeting : climbers, families, funny hikers dressed like they were to climb the Mont Blanc, and paraglider, inspired by the nice weather. We had also been given a convincing demo of How to tangle one’s paraglider’s wings in a tree, after an amazing 1s 17’’’ flight.
The first two routes I climbed with Anett were not the best of the world: stairs sculpted in a fragile rock, with one single interesting move. But after a muesli and a crazy route (something helical in a kind of chimney), we get some courage and tackle some more interesting problems :2 nice and vertical lines. Meanwhile, Tibi and Gabor are playing in pulling themselves on a rope in a nice (or horrible) cave-shaped route.
What is pretty surprising is that almost everybody meet up with us in our crags after their own project of big wall or hard sport climbing. But we did not tell anybody where we are moreover, there are so many crag in the area !
At base camp a nice campfire welcomes us! Thanks Dani andTimi !
Dinner time, and time to savour some nice meal prepared by budding cookers. Miam miam !
Hoho What’s that ? It seems I can smell the presence of an undesired guest in the surroundings. Majkremmmmmmmm Aaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
Sunday ! Bor, Bence, Eke, and Mister Rap appeared from nowhere !
Once again it is a great mess around the cars, everybody is talking at the same time, between two tablets of magnesium and C-vitamin (things that the Tesco majkrem fails to provide) I am lost ! It is too early in the morning and my Hungarian to English translator is still inactivated. Fortunately I am adopted by Feco and the Gyori Edes team for some sport climbing. In a few hours, this great climbing party turns into a ‘shivering together party in the freezing wind’. But in spite of the cold Feco and his bravery tackle a very spicy 6+ (actually something closer to 8-). The route is so ‘szép’ that the rope get trapped and he has to climb it once more.
Later, I join Gabor and the call of big walls, for a little think tank on the reversibility principle of the expresses, the necessity of two points, corollary to the Heisenberg uncertainty, and other even more philosophical issues.
At nightfall, we appreciate warming up by the fire, in a good company, food and Tokaj. Everyone is narrating it exploits and adventures of the day. It is very funny even if I do not really understand... A really good evening, but, something is missing.... :
our rockstar and its guitar !
Monday and last day for many of us. Lots of ‘Big wall’ projects ! I join Gabor to continue our important philosophical discussion. The project is the unpronounceable Danglweg Hochfallwand, 2 pitches of 30 and 50 m in the Sun, advised by Adam and Istvan. The route is nice, and I feel in a good shape so that I am sure when I reach the belay station that is is not yet the correct one, and that I have to keep going upper. The second pitch also appears really short. But it is not the opinion of my partner who is trying to establish communication with lizards to kill time. One regret : I do not see one single animal despite of the quantity of dropping we meet. A nice panorama on the Schneeberg at the top and we abseil down. Youhou ! Oups.. The rope is a bit short ... Thank you to my rescue team and their cash pad who help me, at the last pitch, to finish the day alive. The crag down bellow, I find a poor Bor without partner : everybody is too tired or ‘nagyfalling’ .
22:30 Civilisation: gaz puffs, Nino nino, “Ing 2999 Ft”, tüü tüüt, “Spar olcsobb”,... Why am I back ?
A nice week end to know a bit more about the guys I meet in Bercsenyi, to speak, eat, live Hungarian, and of course to climb ! See you next trip (with more challenging route, ok Anett ? ) ! What about a trip in the French calanques next year ?
If we meet there, I promise I write on the blog in Hungarian ;). Sok boldogsagot kivanok mindekinek a maszsassal ! A votre santé !
Hétfő este a csapat nagy része hazament (köztük Helene), két kocsi maradt. Fecó, Anett, Norbi, Laci, én és Rapp Uram, Eke, Czanik és Bor.
Kedden verőfényes napsütésben főztünk egy kis grízes vaníliapudingot
Fecóval a Direkte Sonnenuhrwand-ot másztuk 7+ -ért. Meg kell mondjam ez az út gyönyörű. Többek között kitett kimászások, életem legszebb 5-ös hossza és egy lefelé (!) vezető hossz is volt benne.
Miután leértünk Norbi, Laci, Gábor és Anett a Mikla nevű szektornál pont befejezték a mászást (Eke, Czanik meg Bor máshol nagyfalaztak). Ez a szektor elég érdekes: szó szerint fel vannak festve a sziklára az utak és 70 éves szögekkel van biztosítva. Mondanom sem kell zsíros és kicsit törős. Norbi kitört egy lépést és beleesett pár métert egy rozsdás karikába :S
Sütkéreztünk egy kicsit, aztán belemásztunk a Weg der Wr.Neustadter Jugend 7+ -os útba (90m). Volt benne egy kunsztos kimászás, a vége szép volt, tetején a kereszt.
Végül felmentünk az ÖTK mászóiskolába meg kimentünk a Skywalk-ra.
Képek bővebben itt.